• Kind of Malbec: Mendoza Wine + Business Collaboration
    by Mike Veseth on 9 Aprile 2024 at 08:01

    “Kind of Blue” is one of my favorite jazz albums and, although we usually think of it as a Miles Davis work, it is really a collaboration of talented artists at the height of their powers.  Recorded in 1959, it features John Coltrane, Cannonball Adderly, and Bill Evans among others (who can forget Paul Chambers’

  • What’s Ahead for Wine and Artificial Intelligence?
    by Mike Veseth on 2 Aprile 2024 at 08:01

    About half the hands in the room shot skywards and I was surprised. I was at the License to Steal national wine marketing workshop that took place alongside the Eastern Winery Expo in Syracuse, New York, last month and the topic was artificial intelligence (AI). We had just seen a presentation about the role of

  • Germania – esportazioni di vino 2023
    by bacca on 11 Aprile 2024 at 19:00

    Le esportazioni tedesche di vino sono in costante calo in volume da ormai diversi anni. Il grafico qui sopra mostra chiaramente questo trend: si è passati da 4 milioni di ettolitri di 10 anni fa agli attuali 3.3 milioni. Il calo non si riflette però nel valore delle esportazioni che si mantiene a cavallo del L'articolo Germania – esportazioni di vino 2023 proviene da I numeri del vino.

  • Nuova Zelanda – esportazioni di vino 2023
    by bacca on 9 Aprile 2024 at 19:00

    Anche la Nuova Zelanda ha avuto il suo anno pesantemente negativo per le esportazioni di vino. Nel 2023 il calo è del 12% in valuta locale (2.1 miliardi di dollari locali), che diventa -15% in euro (1.2 miliardi) per via della svalutazione della valuta. Si tratta essenzialmente di un calo guidato dai volumi, scesi del L'articolo Nuova Zelanda – esportazioni di vino 2023 proviene da I numeri del vino.

  • A Masterful Class on Franciacorta in Dallas
    by noreply@blogger.com (Alfonso Cevola) on 7 Aprile 2024 at 18:58

    Since the receding of the pandemic, the wine world has seen the starting up again of traveling shows, seminars and winemaker presentations. And of course, the return of the Master Class, on just about everything. In today’s hyper-aggrandized environment for aspiring wine professionals, where certification is all the rage, one would think that someone like a master sommelier or master of wine could be more than capable of teaching such a class. And many are. Likewise, I’ve been in master classes led by master sommeliers who had me squirming in my seat for their lack of preparation and dissemination of faulty and incomplete material. After all, they too, are only human. But there is an expectation around an event like a master class, that one who attends such a seminar comes away having greater knowledge of the subject than what he or she had before such an experience. It isn’t necessary that such a class be taught by a master, but it should be handled by someone who has mastery of the subject and is fully capable of communicating the necessary information. One such event, and the person who presented it, provided the perfect example of what a master class should be. The event was Discovering Franciacorta, Italy’s premiere sparkling wine. It was sponsored by the Consorzio Franciacorta and arranged by Constance Chamberlain of Wine & Co. The presenter was Franciacorta Ambassador May Matta-Aliah, DWS. It was held in Dallas at the tres chic Mister Charles restaurant, in their main dining room. In my career days, I often sat at the soda counter, when it was the Highland Park Pharmacy, and had a quick grilled cheese sandwich and a Dr. Pepper, in between account appointments. It was nice to be back in a space that had been restored, re-imagined and reinvented for today. And on this day, we were in store for some delicious wines (and foods), with a nice dollop of education about Italian wine and specifically, Franciacorta. The dining room at L'Albereta with Chef Marchesi looking on from afar Franciacorta is near and dear to me from my working days. I always loved to stop at L’Albereta in Erbusco, where we would stay while visiting our suppliers, Bellavista and Contadi Castaldi. I would take clients there to visit and we had some fantastic meals at the restaurant, especially when Gualtiero Marchesi was alive and at the helm of the ship. One of Italy’s great chefs in the 20th century, in a room that was impeccably arranged. This time, Franciacorta came to us in Dallas and the restaurant provided a rare convergence of food with the wine that was quintessentially kismet. Franciacorta Ambassador May Matta-Aliah started on time and the event lasted approximately 2 hours. Enough to learn a little about Franciacorta, taste three flights of wine (nine wines total) and sample them with seven small bites from the chefs at Mister Charles. Wine Ambassadors come in a variety of styles and persuasions. There are the “guns for hire” varieties, which can sometimes come off as “shilling for dollars.” Then there are those who are engaged in the subject matter and present it in an educational yet entertaining manner. Ms. Matta-Aliah is from the latter camp. She gave a good background on the subject, complete with a nicely done Audio-Visual program. She didn’t belabor the presentation with personal anecdotes – it wasn’t about her. She was professional and I came away knowing a more about the subject and the wines than before the seminar. And I’m fairly well versed in the wines and the area, having been immersed in Franciacorta a time or two. Well done! I could only imagine what the younger wine professional took away from this event – as it had lots of useful information.  And then there was the tasting. We had three flights of three wines each, starting with the Satēn, going to the Brut and finishing with the Rosé wines. And even though we are talking sparkling wine in the classic method, Franciacorta is more thought of as a wine to accompany food rather than a strictly celebratory sparkling beverage, which it also can be. But the Italian sensitivity is towards food with wine. Thus, the matched small bites were an additional point of illumination when it came to not just understanding Franciacorta, but also Italian wine, if not to Italian culture, altogether. How’s that for Italian-splaining?   First flight – Satēn – served with Ossetra caviar and egg salad on toasted brioche, and spring pea gougéres, and truffle beignet, chive crème fraïche Berlucchi Franciacorta Satēn Brut 61 - Green nose, slightly buttery, acidic, sharp-Bright – good finish. Barone Pizzini Franciacorta Satēn Brut 2019 – Yeasty – buttery, acidic, sharp citric and lean. Castello Bonomi Franciacorta Satēn Brut 2019 – Evergreen, piney, fruity, lemon notes; bright slightly saor (ala Venice) – savory   shrimp Cappelletti Second flight – Brut – served with Blue Fin tuna crudo, Thai passion fruit dressing, and shrimp Cappelletti sauce velouté, Guajillo Faccoli Franciacorta Brut – Delicate fragrant nose, slight butteriness; well balanced; good fruit, nice length, good finish. (matched well with the tuna crudo). Castelfaglia Franciacorta Brut ‘Monogram’ Blanc de Blancs – Buttery, slight evergreen notes; thin, acidic, sharp (electric!) Ca’ del Bosco Franciacorta ‘Dosaggio Zero’ 2019 – Saline nose, fleshy, slight butteriness. Thin (lean or skinny?) high acidity, good fruit, slightly spicy, some herbal quality. (Note: not too fizzy)   Third flight – Rosé – served with Seared scallop, roasted sunchokes, pomegranate, and Atlantic Halibut, cauliflower, sauce Vierge La Montina Franciacorta Rosé Extra Brut – Fleshy, iron (rust? arrugginita?), slightly bitter, possible reductive note (maybe from product seeing exposure to heat in transit or in warehouse?) Contadi Castaldi Franciacorta Rosé Brut – rich nose, spicy; berry/raspberry notes. Nice balance, good fruit, but kind of an odd wine. Feels a little bit commercial. Ferghettina Franciacorta Rosé Brut – Straight Pinot noir (100%) lots of berry and savory notes. (Didn’t go too well with the vinegary sauce Vierge.)   Overall, the wines showed well and there was a varied group of wines showing, from larger commercial houses to smaller boutique operations. Franciacorta is a small appellation, but inside the area there is a great deal of diversity in soil, exposure and climate. And of course, opinions on winemaking. It is Italy, after all. I had a little laugh I shared with another participant, James LaBarba. James and I worked together from 1989-1992 at American Wine, started by his father Tony LaBarba. We sold Berlucchi (sparkling) and Ca’ del Bosco (still and sparkling) back then, which was, for both of us, half-a-lifetime ago. I noted to James in casual conversation during a break, that our half-a-life-time ago was, for almost everyone else in the room, a lifetime ago, as most of the attendees were not born, back then when we were trying to get some traction for Franciacorta in Dallas and in Texas. Thankfully, now, we have a larger legion of younger professionals who can take up the torch and climb those mountains for Italy and Franciacorta wines. It is truly something to be grateful for, to watch the progression of the generations and the advances being made. Thanks again to the Franciacorta Consorzio, and to Constance and to May, for making Dallas one of their stops. For too long, we were flyover country. But now, Texas, Dallas, Houston, Austin, and other urban areas, are seeing more immersion from the educational resources to forward the cause of Italian wine.   Lake Iseo Further writing on this blog, over the years, about Franciacorta   © written and photographed by Alfonso Cevola limited rights reserved On the Wine Trail in Italy wine blog +  Italian wine blog + Italy W

  • Easter of the Immigrants – A Feast for the Ages
    by noreply@blogger.com (Alfonso Cevola) on 31 Marzo 2024 at 11:40

    From the archives.. Over the past month, as my personal fog has lifted, there have been dreams. And in these dreams, many of them have had family who are no longer with us. The Grande Cinema of them all is one which has taken on a life after waking. We’re in a large family dining room. Around the table are my dad, and his parents, my grandmother and grandfather. Also there is my dad's sister and her husband, and my dad's uncles and aunts, wives and husbands. My mother’s mother is there as well as my mom's older sister and her two brothers and their wives. The table is oval and large. It is covered with a white tablecloth, not too bright. There is an overhead light, a chandelier, but not too fussy. The light is warm, like that from a fireplace. There is opera music, not too tragic, playing, not too loud. Nothing is overplayed. Everything is just right. Nearby, the kitchen emits archetypical aromas that came from an Italian-American kitchen in the 1950’s; onion, basil, roasted potatoes, olive oil, grated cheese, tomato sauce simmering, meatballs, warm bread, lamb roast. Somewhere in time and imagination it’s Easter. Easter of the immigrants. In the kitchen, my mother is cooking. Not her mother or her mother in law, my grandmothers. No, they are sitting down, waiting. Everyone is waiting, even my father. He is displaying great patience. And his patience is about to be rewarded with a Feast for the Ages. My mother has made fresh pasta, ribbons of egg-rich goodness. From a garden in the long-lost past, put-up tomatoes re-create the freshness of a once idyllic California summer. And that is what everyone is waiting for. For the pasta to be ready. The roast is resting. The potatoes are nestling in the juice of the roast. The meatballs await, simmering in the sauce. The wine glasses, delicate little ones, etched gracefully with grapevines, are filled with wine from several decanters on the table. Red wine, from California and, if my uncle had anything to do with it, also from Italy. My real-life memories from a table like this usually were more frenetic. People would be talking a little louder, maybe cutting up, telling a joke or two. But not this time. It is as if everyone is waiting for something or someone. And they are. They are waiting for my mother to bring her home-made pasta to the table.… My dad’s friend Mario, whom I worked for when I moved to Dallas, would tell me stories about the tables he sat around as a child and later as a young man. “We’d go out to Escondido to my uncle’s ranch. There were oranges, avocados and fresh vegetables. They’d roast a lamb, the wine would flow. Several people would bring instruments out of their cars, everyone played something or sang and we’d sit there until the sun would set behind the Pacific Ocean. God, how I miss those days,” Mario would tell me. “They’re all gone now. We were young and new to this country. We were filled with dreams and hope. We were becoming Americans, but we never forgot where we came from.” We never forgot where we came from. Three generations later, it is all as if it had been a dream. My older sister still remembers. Maybe a cousin or two in California. I have pictures and the faintest of memories.… I remember once, when I was three or four, we were at my Aunt Mary and Uncle Lou’s house. Everyone was getting ready to go to a fair. It must have been in the springtime, for I remember the weather was perfect. I must have gone to the bathroom, maybe upstairs. For when I came out, the house was empty. Everyone was gone. Without me. It probably was only ten or twenty minutes. But to me it seemed like an eternity. I remember crying, thinking that they didn’t want to take me. What had I done so wrong? Eventually someone came back, I think it was my Aunt Mary, and fetched me. Aunt Mary, who did not suffer fools gladly, saw that I was upset. But she wouldn’t have any of my tears. “Let’s go, little one, everyone is waiting for you.” And off we went, to get ice cream and balloons, and to sit in the carousel and listen to the calliope music. A day in the life. All gone as well.… Back, to the dream around the oval table. After the pasta arrived and the lamb and potatoes and salad and wine were all finished, several people would go outside to smoke and to watch the magnolia tree drop flowers on the roses in the garden. Inside the phonograph played the Easter Hymn from Cavalleria Rusticana. In a corner Aunt Anna was crying softly; the music recalled some memory which evoked her emotions. Inneggiamo, il Signor non è morto.Ei fulgente ha dischiuso l'avel.Inneggiamo al Signore risorto—oggi asceso alla gloria del Ciel! Easter as it once was. Easter as it never was. Easter as it never will be again. For all the immigrants are gone and once again, we are home, alone. written by Alfonso Cevola limited rights reserved On the Wine Trail in Italy wine blog +  Italian wine blog + Italy W

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  • Vinitaly 2024: alcuni appuntamenti da tenere d'occhio
    by Elisabetta Tosi on 8 Aprile 2024 at 13:42

    Il conto alla rovescia è ormai scattato, questione di pochi giorni ancora e si inaugurerà la 56 edizione di Vinitaly. Dopo tutti questi anni (di fiera e di relativi articoli e trattati sul tema) ci auguriamo che le aziende partecipanti abbiano fatto i compiti a casa, e si siano preparati un ricco carnet di appuntamenti e incontri b2b.

  • Il Vermouth di Ca' Rugate, un nuovo modo di bere Amarone della Valpolicella
    by Elisabetta Tosi on 2 Aprile 2024 at 09:29

    Era la fine degli anni ’90 quando il mondo del vino improvvisamente si accorse che era scoppiato un nuovo fenomeno: l’Amaronemania. Tutti pazzi per questo vino rosso, fatto con uve appassite, secco, laddove fino a quel momento l’unica associazione di idee che si riusciva a fare parlando di uve appassite era con i vini dolci. Non starò a ricordare la vera storia dell’Amarone, che ormai dovrebbe essere nota: qui mi interessa ricordare come fu definito per la prima volta da uno dei più illustri capostipiti del giornalismo enologico ed enogastronomico italiano, Luigi Veronelli. Vino da meditazione.

  • Poil de Lievre 2017 – Domaine Bobinet
    by Francesco Petroli on 21 Aprile 2020 at 10:15

    Poil de Lievre 2017 - Domaine Bobinet, un vino quotidiano, in equilibrio tra luminosità calde e luci fredde, generoso nei sapori e ritmato dalla tensione acido/sapida. The post Poil de Lievre 2017 – Domaine Bobinet appeared first on Into the Wine.

  • My Lovely Quarantine #2
    by Claudio Celio on 17 Aprile 2020 at 07:34

    Domaine Belluard - Domaine Des Cavarodes - Francois Ganevat - Lassaigne - Praesidium - Skerlj - Vodopivec The post My Lovely Quarantine #2 appeared first on Into the Wine.

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  • What an ex-lover and commercial wine had in common
    by Alice Feiring on 15 Gennaio 2022 at 17:54

      I recently pulled out my old book and started to read at random and thought I’d share some of it. Many of you reading might not know that my first book was published in 2008 before we really ever talked about natural wine, when the wine world was still new and not talked about but very much feared. Here’s my unedited reading of the beginning of Chapter 2.  It goes on to visit U.C. Davis where I wasn’t exactly welcomed, got into a few nasty tussles about native yeast and irrigation. So, this incident was in 2006, Big Joe was the late and certainly great, Joe Dressner. And thus, and thus.. it goes.     what i learned at UC Davis   and below, continues to the point that I am about to meet Roger Boulton.

  • On Pét-Nat, Soup Dumplings, and Chemo (At Least I Can’t Taste the Mouse)
    by On Design on 16 Novembre 2021 at 14:46